What I don’t know about tempura- introduction
I’ve never used a carbonated liquid to make a batter, ever. It’s obvious to anyone who asks me, and they do ask me as I’m supposed to be a chef. I’m supposed to know how to make everything, but I don’t. High among the list of the things I’m poor at would be batters. My dumplings sometimes are flavorful, sometimes soggy, but I still don’t know how to make a large quantity of them without burning my stew. I know, it’s stupid, I should just cook them in the drained stew liquid, but I don’t. I used to be fine making cakes, but after reading the Cake Bible and other scholarly tomes, after studying so much about the families of cakes and the principals and factors of cakes, now I can’t make cakes, I get tempted to buy a cake mix when someone asks me to make a cake. My crepes are hit and miss, and my cookies are hardly ever chewy. I’ve even lost my touch on a twisting a consistent perogy dough, and I used to be a drunken master of perogy dough. Now my perogies all turn out slimy and barely hold together. I’ve never made pastry as I would always get cheap over the cost of the butter. I’m a fry cook and a loner, I’ve got no one to make pastry for. What’s a lonely single man doing making pastry in his one room apartment? I eat garbage myself and I don’t care. I squatted in the corner of the fine kitchen eating Muskovy duck with cherry demi, I shoveled it without utensils, the chef glanced over, then all the rest of my days there I got pasta. I’m always too cheap to use beer or soda for my tempura batters. I always just use water and drink the beer. So it’s obvious why I fail, why after twenty years of cooking I know absolutely nothing about tempura. What I don’t know about tempura is a frame for expressing the vast domain of things I don’t know about cooking after making a living off it for twenty years.
Martha Stewart was still young when she wrote ‘Entertaining’ and everything was already magical in her kitchen. Copper pans everywhere, earthen crocks, gas stoves, every possible tool and gadget, a farm in the back with a garden planted particular to each coming banquet, a cultish following. Look into their eyes in the pictures, you find no dissent. My jealousy broke through to love and I accepted her fairy tale cooking world. I was like a little girl flipping through a picture book of an enchanted castle, and this was even before she was famous. She was greater than me and had more than I’ll ever see when she was just getting started. She wasn’t just getting started, she was around forty, but she looked like she was thirteen. I’m forty and look like I’ll die soon, Careme died at twenty six, the life in the wood and coal fire ovens. No, of course not, he died in his late forties, the king of chefs and the chef to kings, but it’s somehow romantic to me to imagine him toiling. I picture Careme toiling just as I picture Escoffier sitting on his arse, even as they were titans both. Perhaps it was because Escoffier lived to almost ninety that I imagine he held something back. The great chefs are also great athletes, Martha Stewart in her sixties could still probably spin twice the plates as me. She was the inspiration for this story.
Her book had an entire chapter on tempura and each page was filled with amazingly simple facts I had no idea about. I’ve been frying things since man first faked the moon landing. I’ve been frying food since I lost my baby teeth. I personally fried ten thousand pounds of chicken wings in three months at just one of the many shitholes I’ve suffered in. Easily half of the food I consumed from 1981-1985 was deep fried by me personally. At least one item of every meal of most of my life has been deep fried. My face is permanently scarred with pock-marks and my arms burnt like a penitent from my years living at and living off of the fryer. I’ve spent an entire lackluster career frying the same five items the same way for the same wage (a buck or two above minimum). But in all those years from the Monte Cristo to ‘the Captain’s’ Pakora Burger, no one ever said to me like Martha Stewart did, that you should cut your vegetables to uniform sizes and group them according to cooking time.